Film Negative: Difference between revisions
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# White-balance the photo. Picking the white balance off a spot which should be neutral in hue, if the image has one, is easiest. | # White-balance the photo. Picking the white balance off a spot which should be neutral in hue, if the image has one, is easiest. | ||
# Optionally, you can try to automatically set more accurate red and blue ratio values. To do so, click the "Pick white and black spots" button, then click the whitest and blackest spots in the actual image - these can be spots in the actual image captured on film, or exposed and unexposed areas of the film frame itself. Experiment to find which works best for you. This needs to be done only once per film role. | # Optionally, you can try to automatically set more accurate red and blue ratio values. To do so, click the "Pick white and black spots" button, then click the whitest and blackest spots in the actual image - these can be spots in the actual image captured on film, or exposed and unexposed areas of the film frame itself. Experiment to find which works best for you. This needs to be done only once per film role. | ||
That's it as far as correcting the negative goes. Resume adjusting the photo just as if it was a normal "positive" raw photo. | |||
== Interface == | == Interface == | ||
Revision as of 12:18, 17 July 2019
Introduction
Negatives are images with reversed lightness and hues, such as those produced by film cameras. RawTherapee 5.7 introduced the Film Negative tool to make developing raw photos of negatives simple.
Usage
- Open a raw photo (non-raw photos are not supported).
- In the Raw tab, activate the Film Negative tool.
- White-balance the photo. Picking the white balance off a spot which should be neutral in hue, if the image has one, is easiest.
- Optionally, you can try to automatically set more accurate red and blue ratio values. To do so, click the "Pick white and black spots" button, then click the whitest and blackest spots in the actual image - these can be spots in the actual image captured on film, or exposed and unexposed areas of the film frame itself. Experiment to find which works best for you. This needs to be done only once per film role.
That's it as far as correcting the negative goes. Resume adjusting the photo just as if it was a normal "positive" raw photo.